Far from the front lines, Ukrainians guard checkpoints and wait for the war to come

Bohdan Kulik, 62, built the outpost's stove. He is "the village Elon Musk," according to his friends. (Ryan Kellman/NPR)

Ryan Kellman / Ryan Kellman

On a road outside Lviv in western Ukraine, a half-dozen men, bundled up against the cold and wind, huddle around a rusted oil drum fashioned into a wood-burning stove. Smoke billows from a crooked pipe jutting from the top.

This, for now, is their war — guarding a checkpoint hundreds of miles from the battles raging to the east.

They’ve piled sandbags on top of concrete blocks. A blue and yellow Ukrainian flag tied to a stick flutters in the wind.